"Changes in latitude bring changes in attitude" Jimmy Buffett
The cruise officially began at midnight after our transfer from the airport and provisions and luggage were stowed. All food was covered in the price and not exactly Gourmet, but tasty none the less; beef, chicken, pork, fresh and frozen vegetables, salad necessities, etc. Shortly after midnight the "Bahama Star" set sail across the gulf stream for Gun Cay where we cleared customs the following morning.
Most of the cruising between the islands was done at night. The reasoning behind this was that it freed the daytime hours for sightseeing, photographing, napping, etc. Two hour watches were established with three people on each shift - two lookouts and another at the wheel. The captain spent much of his time down in his cabin with a variety of electronic range finders, radios, depth finders, etc. keeping the boat on course. Occasionally he would surface with a revised compass course for the wheel man to follow. Captain Jody was about 30, son of a lobster fisherman, sang and played his guitar and was a former football star with the Key West Conchs. He was also a real source of south Florida and Bahamian information. During the following six days he did a tremendous job of getting us through the many reefs and tight spots to our destinations.
Morning's early light brought our first view of land, Cat Cay one of point of entries into the Bahamas. The islands or cays comprise about 5,380 square miles or about the size of Connecticut if all were put together. There are over 700 of these islands, only 30 of them are inhabited. Nassau is the capital.
Christopher Columbus set foot on Watling Island (San Salvador) in 1492. The islands became a British colony in 1783, internal self government was granted in 1964 and full independence was granted within the British Commonwealth in 1973. The spoken language is English and the Yankee Dollar is more than welcome. 85% of the population is black, somewhat formal and very proud. We were advised to be on our better behavior. As Captain Jody said they have a special way of handling the rude or demanding.
Since the Bahamas are an independent nation it is necessary to go through customs; a simple form needs to be filled out accompanied by a voter registration. No passport was required. The captain handled everything and took maybe a half hour. The rest of the day was spent learning the ropes, setting the sails, establishing schedules for the kitchen or galley (cooking and cleaning was shared by all) and swimming and snorkeling around a nearby wreck. During the day we noticed a water spout or small funnel cloud and a sailboat which had gotten to close to a reef and run aground. Surprisingly both are a common occurrence. The waterspouts are like a small tornado without the velocity. Inexperienced skippers upon occasion misread the water or a chart and end up on a reef. If the ship cannot be freed during high tide they are often battered apart during a storm and the remains salvaged.
Accompanying "The Bahama Star" on this odyssey were two other sailing vessels. One was equipped with air compressors and outfitted for scuba enthusiast; the other was fitted with additional sails and was geared towards the competitive or racing sailor. Our boat had a small mainsail and a larger foresail or Genoa jib. Quite often when the wind was right we would combine the jib with the motor, the motor providing most of the power, but the filled jib providing a feeling of stability and took some of the vibration away that the motor produced. Thus, motor sailing.
The Berry Isle group according to the skipper is probably the prettiest of the Bahamas. Many have the "deserted isle" quality about them with the picturesque tropical foliage, swaying palm trees, blue green water and white beaches. Great foregrounds for sunrise or sunset shots. A real absence of humanity, mainly caused by the mosquito and sand fly population.
Our anchorage here was The Chub Cay Club, a semiprivate resort, with hotel, swimming pool, restaurant and fishing charters. Also away from it all was a secluded beach for nude bathing, common on some Bahamian beaches. Resort, restaurant and commissary prices were all high. Everyone stayed with the ship and the bill of fare that was already paid for.
Nassau Town and getting there was not half the fun. My first experience with sea-sickness. Upon awakening I knew that matters were not right. Upon hitting the deck quick haste topside to the rail, hang on, a short prayer, all things passed. Afterwards it helped to sit at the wheel and concentrate on the horizon. The boat was close hauled into the wind at the time and the sea was choppy. The captain said most people get use to this roughness; some people took Dramamine and said it worked. After we entered Nassau harbor with the calm and warm sunshine everyone's spirits improved, and there was no recurrence.
Many of my favorite photographs were taken while entering and leaving Nassau Harbor. Actually the harbor separates New Providence Isle (Nassau) on the right from Paradise Isle on the left. The two islands are joined by Potter's Cay Bridge. Some of the largest cruise ships in the world come and go daily along with mail boats, freighters, along with power and sailing craft of every condition and description. Much loud music, whistles and overall hoopla announce arrivals and departures. Paradise Island is home to the casinos and luxury hotels of the area. Much glitz and ritz, similar to Las Vegas.
Some good "people shot" opportunities were at the harbor around the bridge on the Nassau side. An open air market was close by with vegetable, conch and fish sales along with island souvenirs. The natives are colorful dressed, and prove an excellent subject for long lens shots. Around the yacht basins and ship yards are people working on their boats. The older brightly colored fishing crafts are good targets along with the surrounding personas. Much of the island is accessible on foot, with a variety of parks, historical buildings, monuments etc.
After two days the "Bahama Star" headed north and west toward Great Stirrup Cay, on the northern end of the Berry Isles. This is a regular day stop for the major cruise lines. Large sandy beaches, upbeat music and underwater reefs that provided excellent snorkeling. After a day or so we set sail for North Bimini Harbor the final leg of our Bahama Odyssey.
The main attraction of Bimini is the fishing. It was also a favorite watering hole of Ernest Hemingway. The Compleat Angler Hotel is the place to see and be seen and houses many photographs and memorabilia of the famous author. The town is a small and a bit sleepy. Not much going on. Seaplanes make regular landings and can make a nice photograph. The road to Atlantis is also nearby (underwater) and can be seen with snorkeling gear. This is an unexplained collection of regularly cut blocks that are arranged in the shape of a what may have been a road. Much mystery and it fits well with the theory of Atlantis and the Bermuda Triangle intrigue. The blocks are all very real but no one can explain their origin.
The last night was spent at the Red Lion Pub - salad, corn on the cob and conch fritters. This is a favorite spot with locals and regulars. Amiable service, good prices and great food. At midnight the "Bahama Star" set sail across the Gulf Stream and we were in Miami by daybreak.
Most of the cruising between the islands was done at night. The reasoning behind this was that it freed the daytime hours for sightseeing, photographing, napping, etc. Two hour watches were established with three people on each shift - two lookouts and another at the wheel. The captain spent much of his time down in his cabin with a variety of electronic range finders, radios, depth finders, etc. keeping the boat on course. Occasionally he would surface with a revised compass course for the wheel man to follow. Captain Jody was about 30, son of a lobster fisherman, sang and played his guitar and was a former football star with the Key West Conchs. He was also a real source of south Florida and Bahamian information. During the following six days he did a tremendous job of getting us through the many reefs and tight spots to our destinations.
Morning's early light brought our first view of land, Cat Cay one of point of entries into the Bahamas. The islands or cays comprise about 5,380 square miles or about the size of Connecticut if all were put together. There are over 700 of these islands, only 30 of them are inhabited. Nassau is the capital.
Christopher Columbus set foot on Watling Island (San Salvador) in 1492. The islands became a British colony in 1783, internal self government was granted in 1964 and full independence was granted within the British Commonwealth in 1973. The spoken language is English and the Yankee Dollar is more than welcome. 85% of the population is black, somewhat formal and very proud. We were advised to be on our better behavior. As Captain Jody said they have a special way of handling the rude or demanding.
Since the Bahamas are an independent nation it is necessary to go through customs; a simple form needs to be filled out accompanied by a voter registration. No passport was required. The captain handled everything and took maybe a half hour. The rest of the day was spent learning the ropes, setting the sails, establishing schedules for the kitchen or galley (cooking and cleaning was shared by all) and swimming and snorkeling around a nearby wreck. During the day we noticed a water spout or small funnel cloud and a sailboat which had gotten to close to a reef and run aground. Surprisingly both are a common occurrence. The waterspouts are like a small tornado without the velocity. Inexperienced skippers upon occasion misread the water or a chart and end up on a reef. If the ship cannot be freed during high tide they are often battered apart during a storm and the remains salvaged.
Accompanying "The Bahama Star" on this odyssey were two other sailing vessels. One was equipped with air compressors and outfitted for scuba enthusiast; the other was fitted with additional sails and was geared towards the competitive or racing sailor. Our boat had a small mainsail and a larger foresail or Genoa jib. Quite often when the wind was right we would combine the jib with the motor, the motor providing most of the power, but the filled jib providing a feeling of stability and took some of the vibration away that the motor produced. Thus, motor sailing.
The Berry Isle group according to the skipper is probably the prettiest of the Bahamas. Many have the "deserted isle" quality about them with the picturesque tropical foliage, swaying palm trees, blue green water and white beaches. Great foregrounds for sunrise or sunset shots. A real absence of humanity, mainly caused by the mosquito and sand fly population.
Our anchorage here was The Chub Cay Club, a semiprivate resort, with hotel, swimming pool, restaurant and fishing charters. Also away from it all was a secluded beach for nude bathing, common on some Bahamian beaches. Resort, restaurant and commissary prices were all high. Everyone stayed with the ship and the bill of fare that was already paid for.
Nassau Town and getting there was not half the fun. My first experience with sea-sickness. Upon awakening I knew that matters were not right. Upon hitting the deck quick haste topside to the rail, hang on, a short prayer, all things passed. Afterwards it helped to sit at the wheel and concentrate on the horizon. The boat was close hauled into the wind at the time and the sea was choppy. The captain said most people get use to this roughness; some people took Dramamine and said it worked. After we entered Nassau harbor with the calm and warm sunshine everyone's spirits improved, and there was no recurrence.
Many of my favorite photographs were taken while entering and leaving Nassau Harbor. Actually the harbor separates New Providence Isle (Nassau) on the right from Paradise Isle on the left. The two islands are joined by Potter's Cay Bridge. Some of the largest cruise ships in the world come and go daily along with mail boats, freighters, along with power and sailing craft of every condition and description. Much loud music, whistles and overall hoopla announce arrivals and departures. Paradise Island is home to the casinos and luxury hotels of the area. Much glitz and ritz, similar to Las Vegas.
Some good "people shot" opportunities were at the harbor around the bridge on the Nassau side. An open air market was close by with vegetable, conch and fish sales along with island souvenirs. The natives are colorful dressed, and prove an excellent subject for long lens shots. Around the yacht basins and ship yards are people working on their boats. The older brightly colored fishing crafts are good targets along with the surrounding personas. Much of the island is accessible on foot, with a variety of parks, historical buildings, monuments etc.
After two days the "Bahama Star" headed north and west toward Great Stirrup Cay, on the northern end of the Berry Isles. This is a regular day stop for the major cruise lines. Large sandy beaches, upbeat music and underwater reefs that provided excellent snorkeling. After a day or so we set sail for North Bimini Harbor the final leg of our Bahama Odyssey.
The main attraction of Bimini is the fishing. It was also a favorite watering hole of Ernest Hemingway. The Compleat Angler Hotel is the place to see and be seen and houses many photographs and memorabilia of the famous author. The town is a small and a bit sleepy. Not much going on. Seaplanes make regular landings and can make a nice photograph. The road to Atlantis is also nearby (underwater) and can be seen with snorkeling gear. This is an unexplained collection of regularly cut blocks that are arranged in the shape of a what may have been a road. Much mystery and it fits well with the theory of Atlantis and the Bermuda Triangle intrigue. The blocks are all very real but no one can explain their origin.
The last night was spent at the Red Lion Pub - salad, corn on the cob and conch fritters. This is a favorite spot with locals and regulars. Amiable service, good prices and great food. At midnight the "Bahama Star" set sail across the Gulf Stream and we were in Miami by daybreak.
Published by The Photographic Society of America, October 2000
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