The Colorful World of Freighter Travel

"Writing and travel broaden your ass if not your mind" Ernest Hemingway


The spring equinox of the new millennium started off with a real different splash - 50 days on a German freighter, the "Dagmar Maersk". My odyssey began in Newark, NJ and ended in Long Beach, CA fifty days later. The Dagmar, a 940 ft state of the art container ship, cruised at 27 mph, fast enough to water ski behind. The senior officers were East German and the other crew members were Russian, Lithuanian, Filipino and Kiribati Islanders. I was the only passenger and American on board.

We departed Newark at 0600 for Norfolk VA on March 21 followed by Charleston SC, Algeciras Spain, Gioia Tauro Italy, the Suez Canal, Jeddah Saudi Arabia, Salalah Oman, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kaohsiung Taiwan, and Yokohama Japan and concluded at Long Beach CA on May 8. Most ports were the same throughout the world, deep water entry to accommodate the 45 ft draft along with numerous gatling cranes and acres of concrete slab used for handling and storing the many boxes. These boxes were termed by some to be the "heart of the global economy". Forty feet long by eight feet wide by eight and one half feet high. They hold up to 60 tons of goods and can be loaded on or off in a minute or two. The Dagmar had the capacity to transport over 2000 of them at one time. For the most part the loading was completed in eight or ten hours. After operations were final in Long Beach the Dagmar reversed its way back to Newark, following a similar course and was thus termed the "pendulum route".

Regrettably, shore leave was limited, however entering and leaving the many harbors provided some nice opportunities for photographs. My gear consisted of a 35mm Pentax, a 28 - 210mm zoom lens, 1000mm fixed aperture lens, tripod, flash unit, an Olympus point and shoot that fits easily in my pocket and a dozen or so rolls of film. The superstructure of the ship, especially at the bridge provided an excellent bird eye view of the many harbors and operations.

The only truly rough weather encountered was while crossing the Atlantic - a couple nights of rocking and rolling which required my placing one foot on the deck to keep from falling off the berth. The rain in Spain was also outside the plain when we arrived in Algeciras. Gibraltar looks just like it does on the Prudential ads. We spent a day there then departed for Gioia Tauro Italy which is right on the toe of the boot. Gioia Tauro is a central pick up and delivery port for central Europe and not much else. A lot of freight comes and goes but no picturesque town or harbor. Passing between Italy and Sicily was another story. Ferries ran between the two with nice homes on either side. Weather was clear and the sunshine nicely brought out the "Italian" - buildings with white walls and red roof tiles, sandy beaches and colorful tropical foliage.

It was another two day run to Port Said and our passage through the Suez Canal. We waited about six hours for authorization and a pilot to guide us through. The west side was nicely developed with attractive architecture and surroundings, the east was like a desert down to the water. The canal was just that - a canal, a trench. Small fishing boats with oars and sails were abundant along with an occasional ferry crossing. For the most part it was single file through the canal except on the southern end where construction was in process to widen it.

An unusual situation was encountered in Jeddah - all photography, shore leave, liquor and pornographic material were strictly off limits. Cameras, liquor and you know what were secured in a storage locker with a special seal placed across the locker opening to assure that the door was not opened during the time we were in port. The ship was subject to search and any violators were dealt with to the max. The city itself looked big and prosperous with a large lighted fountain that looked lovely as we approached the city shortly before midnight.

Warm temperatures and humidity were part of our lives from Salalah, Singapore and Hong Kong. Both glasses and camera lenses fogged up as soon as stepping from the air conditioned indoors. Singapore's Brani freight terminal was one of the largest and located within an easy walk of a huge shopping mall located on World Trade Centre waterfront. "Convivia 2000" billed as the "1st World Beer Festival" was in full swing, so along with Oriental items for sale there was a variety of international brews and entertainment associated with such an event. The standard of living appeared high and everything was very clean and upbeat. Shore leave was limited to one night which was sad as there was a lot left unseen.

Four days later we arrived in Hong Kong with enough time to take a taxi downtown and walk around. In Singapore most of the people I talked with knew English, such was not the case in Hong Kong, at least not the taxi driver. After a slight verbal struggle I was finally able to communicate to him that if he were to be paid we needed a bank. Mission accomplished and everyone was happy. Shore leave was again limited and it would have been nice to have taken a tour of the city, but at least I can say I was there.

In Kaohsiung, Taiwan we were fortunate to have a nice dock space with a view of ships arriving and departing. All kinds; fishing junks, pleasure and commercial craft, pilot, tugs, old and new and from all parts of the world. Again, shore leave was limited. The weather became cooler and I was able to take a tour of the engine room while in port . Big, like a small gymnasium, sophisticated with all its computerized controls and powerful with 58,600 horse power. In addition to the main engine propelling the ship, there were other systems for heating and air conditioning, desalinization of sea water and generating electricity. There was also a complete machine shop and three engineers to keep everything going.

We arrived in Yokohama, Japan three days later for our final and one of the shorter stops before Long Beach. At this point I was ready for the home. Yokohama was clean and modern with newer equipment and dockage facilities. After eight hours we left and began the eight day run to the west coast.

The ship was only four years old so everything had a freshness to it. Each crew member had his private state room and lavatory facilities. There were also lounges with refrigerator, stereo, television, dvd/tape facilities along with a small library. Food was adequate- German cuisine with a few modifications - pork and chicken (commercial cuts), a variety of fresh fish, schnitzel, a lot of chopped cabbage, fresh fruit and soup. Saturday noon was a ritual of hearty soup and fresh baked French bread. There was also a outside barbecue on Easter Sunday with a variety of grill items. Healthful and for the most part tasty. There was always a variety of cold cuts and cheese for sandwiches as an alternative.

A morning ritual I enjoyed was a walk around the main deck, especially the bow where there was just the sound and smell of the sea. I brought a small GPS system with me and was able to get accurate readings of latitude and longitude along with speed and miles from home and to the various destinations. A portable FM and short wave radio was another entertaining item and helped to provide information about other lives and conditions around the world. The crew but were always friendly and courteous. English was the common language but limited. People are people. Photos of families look much like family shots taken in the states and wives are always spending too much money.

Published by Travltips Magazine and the Photographic Society of America, May 2001

Barefoot Cruise - Bahama Isles

"Changes in latitude bring changes in attitude" Jimmy Buffett

The cruise officially began at midnight after our transfer from the airport and provisions and luggage were stowed. All food was covered in the price and not exactly Gourmet, but tasty none the less; beef, chicken, pork, fresh and frozen vegetables, salad necessities, etc. Shortly after midnight the "Bahama Star" set sail across the gulf stream for Gun Cay where we cleared customs the following morning.

Most of the cruising between the islands was done at night. The reasoning behind this was that it freed the daytime hours for sightseeing, photographing, napping, etc. Two hour watches were established with three people on each shift - two lookouts and another at the wheel. The captain spent much of his time down in his cabin with a variety of electronic range finders, radios, depth finders, etc. keeping the boat on course. Occasionally he would surface with a revised compass course for the wheel man to follow. Captain Jody was about 30, son of a lobster fisherman, sang and played his guitar and was a former football star with the Key West Conchs. He was also a real source of south Florida and Bahamian information. During the following six days he did a tremendous job of getting us through the many reefs and tight spots to our destinations.

Morning's early light brought our first view of land, Cat Cay one of point of entries into the Bahamas. The islands or cays comprise about 5,380 square miles or about the size of Connecticut if all were put together. There are over 700 of these islands, only 30 of them are inhabited. Nassau is the capital.

Christopher Columbus set foot on Watling Island (San Salvador) in 1492. The islands became a British colony in 1783, internal self government was granted in 1964 and full independence was granted within the British Commonwealth in 1973. The spoken language is English and the Yankee Dollar is more than welcome. 85% of the population is black, somewhat formal and very proud. We were advised to be on our better behavior. As Captain Jody said they have a special way of handling the rude or demanding.

Since the Bahamas are an independent nation it is necessary to go through customs; a simple form needs to be filled out accompanied by a voter registration. No passport was required. The captain handled everything and took maybe a half hour. The rest of the day was spent learning the ropes, setting the sails, establishing schedules for the kitchen or galley (cooking and cleaning was shared by all) and swimming and snorkeling around a nearby wreck. During the day we noticed a water spout or small funnel cloud and a sailboat which had gotten to close to a reef and run aground. Surprisingly both are a common occurrence. The waterspouts are like a small tornado without the velocity. Inexperienced skippers upon occasion misread the water or a chart and end up on a reef. If the ship cannot be freed during high tide they are often battered apart during a storm and the remains salvaged.

Accompanying "The Bahama Star" on this odyssey were two other sailing vessels. One was equipped with air compressors and outfitted for scuba enthusiast; the other was fitted with additional sails and was geared towards the competitive or racing sailor. Our boat had a small mainsail and a larger foresail or Genoa jib. Quite often when the wind was right we would combine the jib with the motor, the motor providing most of the power, but the filled jib providing a feeling of stability and took some of the vibration away that the motor produced. Thus, motor sailing.

The Berry Isle group according to the skipper is probably the prettiest of the Bahamas. Many have the "deserted isle" quality about them with the picturesque tropical foliage, swaying palm trees, blue green water and white beaches. Great foregrounds for sunrise or sunset shots. A real absence of humanity, mainly caused by the mosquito and sand fly population.

Our anchorage here was The Chub Cay Club, a semiprivate resort, with hotel, swimming pool, restaurant and fishing charters. Also away from it all was a secluded beach for nude bathing, common on some Bahamian beaches. Resort, restaurant and commissary prices were all high. Everyone stayed with the ship and the bill of fare that was already paid for.

Nassau Town and getting there was not half the fun. My first experience with sea-sickness. Upon awakening I knew that matters were not right. Upon hitting the deck quick haste topside to the rail, hang on, a short prayer, all things passed. Afterwards it helped to sit at the wheel and concentrate on the horizon. The boat was close hauled into the wind at the time and the sea was choppy. The captain said most people get use to this roughness; some people took Dramamine and said it worked. After we entered Nassau harbor with the calm and warm sunshine everyone's spirits improved, and there was no recurrence.

Many of my favorite photographs were taken while entering and leaving Nassau Harbor. Actually the harbor separates New Providence Isle (Nassau) on the right from Paradise Isle on the left. The two islands are joined by Potter's Cay Bridge. Some of the largest cruise ships in the world come and go daily along with mail boats, freighters, along with power and sailing craft of every condition and description. Much loud music, whistles and overall hoopla announce arrivals and departures. Paradise Island is home to the casinos and luxury hotels of the area. Much glitz and ritz, similar to Las Vegas.

Some good "people shot" opportunities were at the harbor around the bridge on the Nassau side. An open air market was close by with vegetable, conch and fish sales along with island souvenirs. The natives are colorful dressed, and prove an excellent subject for long lens shots. Around the yacht basins and ship yards are people working on their boats. The older brightly colored fishing crafts are good targets along with the surrounding personas. Much of the island is accessible on foot, with a variety of parks, historical buildings, monuments etc.

After two days the "Bahama Star" headed north and west toward Great Stirrup Cay, on the northern end of the Berry Isles. This is a regular day stop for the major cruise lines. Large sandy beaches, upbeat music and underwater reefs that provided excellent snorkeling. After a day or so we set sail for North Bimini Harbor the final leg of our Bahama Odyssey.

The main attraction of Bimini is the fishing. It was also a favorite watering hole of Ernest Hemingway. The Compleat Angler Hotel is the place to see and be seen and houses many photographs and memorabilia of the famous author. The town is a small and a bit sleepy. Not much going on. Seaplanes make regular landings and can make a nice photograph. The road to Atlantis is also nearby (underwater) and can be seen with snorkeling gear. This is an unexplained collection of regularly cut blocks that are arranged in the shape of a what may have been a road. Much mystery and it fits well with the theory of Atlantis and the Bermuda Triangle intrigue. The blocks are all very real but no one can explain their origin.

The last night was spent at the Red Lion Pub - salad, corn on the cob and conch fritters. This is a favorite spot with locals and regulars. Amiable service, good prices and great food. At midnight the "Bahama Star" set sail across the Gulf Stream and we were in Miami by daybreak.

Published by The Photographic Society of America, October 2000

Nautical Favorites

Say Ya to the U.P. Eh?

"Visit as often as you like, spend your money, have fun but just don't stay".

This was a quote I picked up some time ago, possibly on restaurant placemat during a visit to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. I was referred to one resident as "a troll under the bridge" which took some time to register, than it dawned on me that since I was from the Lower Peninsula that yes I would be located below the bridge (south) that spans the straits and maybe I could even be a troll. Whatever! Actually the people aren't much different than any other place other than they like their space, possibly have a different way of speaking and have a small town friendliness about them – if they’re in the mood.

The suspension bridge "Big Mac" that separates the lower from the Upper Peninsula is the longest suspension bridge in the world, 7,400 ft, 940 ft longer than the Golden Gate. The twin towers extend over 500 ft. above water and 200 ft. below water into bedrock. It’s an awesome object to photograph, especially at night.

Mackinac Island is on the cusp of both of both Peninsulas and is only accessible by boat or snowmobile. No cars are allowed. Bicycles along with horse drawn carriages are the chief modes of transportation. It takes about a half hour to an hour to completely circle the island by bike. The Grand Hotel is the main feature and rooms, in season, cost around $400.00 per couple per night. This includes a full breakfast and five course evening meal. A more reasonable alternative is to pay $10.00 for admission which is deductable from lunch and allows the payer access to the hotel with all its opulence and one of the best views in the world.

The Upper Peninsula is home to over 150 water falls. Between Paradise and Munising are the Upper and Lower Tahquamenon. The upper falls is the second largest east of the Mississippi. The lower falls is a series of smaller falls. The Paradise area is also home to Whitefish Point and the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum with exhibitions of the many wrecks from the Invincible in 1816 to the Edmond Fitzgerald in 1975.

Munising is located on Lake Superior and has many waterfalls that are easily accessible within the city. The city is also the access point for cruises of the Pictured Rock Shoreline and Grand Island and its historic wooded lighthouse. Narrated cruises are scheduled generally two to five times a day, weather permitting and last about two to three hours.

The Keweenaw Peninsula is located further west and is home to the twin cities of Houghton/Hancock which in turn is home to Michigan Tech School of Mining and Engineering. The entire peninsula has a strong history of copper mining along with sparsely inhabited towns. There are many rock formations along with water falls, lighthouses and mining displays and tours. Copper and iron are still mined, but not to the extent it once was.

The Lake of the Clouds is located further west in the Porcupine Mountains State Park. The park is 60,000 acres in size, making it one of the few remaining large wilderness areas in the Midwest. It includes over 90 miles of foot trails, rustic cabins for rent, an abundance of wildlife, and miles of wild rivers and streams to be enjoyed.

Museums, antique car shows, religious memorials, ferry boats with rooster tails, fudgies with fudge, mystery spots, waterway locks, a tower of history, wildlife refuges, bed and breakfast inns, shipwreck tours, scuba facilities, snow trains, casinos and recreational facilities made available just for you! Mastercard, Visa and Discovercard are more than welcome – even from trolls.

Assorted Favorites - Just For You